Not all od the track is wired as yet as I am still waiting for the 22 awg male spade connectors to arrive (I ran out). However, trains are up and running on the Delaware Central Rail Road.
Tuesday, May 23, 2023
Friday, April 28, 2023
I just finished up the latest additions to my rolling stock inventory. Here are a couple of images of the results.
I bashed these three 24' box cars from APAG narrow gauge box car kits. The trucks are from Panamint models, the wheels from Reboxx, the brake ratchet from Tichy Train, and the couplers from San Juan Models. The car bodies are painted Model Master Intermediate Blue. The roofs are painted Tamiya (USAF) Tan. I did not use the kit roofs but instead scratch built them from styrene from one of my old real estate signs. I also scratch built the roof walks from Northeast Scale Lumber 2x6s with Tichy roof walk supports. The kit roofs were peaked but the ones I made are arched (radial). The roof walks were painted with Barnwood craft paint and then a Vallejo dark grey wash was applied. I bent the grab bars from 0.0125 Tichy phosphor bronze wire. I a built car #100 on the left more than a decade ago but tore off the original roof to remove the weight I had originally installed. Also, the color of blue I used back then dfid not meet my current standards. There are some slight variations between it and the other 2 cars. Note the difference in size of the door handles and the grab bars on the ends of the cars. Also, car #100 has bumper blocks on the end sills while the other 2 cars have a more modern style of end beam. The truss rods are made from 10lb, monofilament, fishing line and the turnbuckles are from Tichy Train.
These cars are 3D prints I purchased on Shapeways. They are lettered for the Philadelphia, Wilmington, & Baltimore Railroad. The cars are based on information and images from John White's book on the American railroad freight car. In his book, White notes that the record indicates the prototypes were painted an ivory color with red wheels and a canvass roof that was tan in color. I painted the car bodies Polly-Scale aged white and the wheels and trim with Poly-Scale red. Vallejo ivory is a match for the now no longer available Poly-Scale Aged White. The roof walks are painted barnwood with a Vallejo dark grey wash. The "canvass" roofs were painted Vallejo (USAF) Tan. This is where I got the idea to paint the roofs on the 2 Delaware Central cars shown in the 1st photo, tan. The decals are custom made. I chose the car numbers based on car #720 shown in an image in white's book. I opted to paint all of the hardware, except the truss rods and couplers, red. White's book indicates that the hardware was black, but I liked the red instead. My fictional Delaware Central interfaces with the PW&B in Wilmington. During the Civil war, the president of the PW&B complained of his cars being used on other lines and not returned to the PW&B in a timely manner. That is my justification of running these 2 cars on my layout. The wheels are from Reboxx, the trucks from Eric Cox, and the couplers from Tichy Train. I made the grab bars from Tichy 0.0125 phosphor bronze wire.
Tuesday, March 28, 2023
This past Saturday we held an operations session on my friend, Thom Radice's Western & Atlantic (north branch) HO scale railroad. Here are a few images from that session. There are more images on Thom's blog & I strongly recommend you go over there for his latest posts.
In the background is Thom (back to camera) giving the orientation to the session. You can see Ed, Dan, Rob and just a smidge of Andy listening to Thom while Paul & Bill are examining their assignment sheets & NCE throttle.
Above are the 3 crews. Ed & Dan on the left, Rob & Andy in the center, Bill & the top of Paul's head on the right. Thom is contemplating the snack & beverage tray.Conductor Andy examines the assignment sheet to prepare his crew to make up their train in the Chattanooga yard.
Ed and Dan figuring out their train movements in Atlanta. The roof of the car shed is visible in the lower lefthand corner, and the rolling mill is just in front of Ed and Dan.
Dan & Ed focusing on their train movements in Atlanta.
Bill (left) and Paul (right) working their train through the wye at Kingston Station. You should have seen the look of annoyance Paul gave the photographer for interrupting their workflow just before this image was captured.Ed and Dan behind the sawmill just South of Altoona Pass.
Thom, Rob, & Rob's plus-one, Uncle Nearest. I must say, Uncle Ernest turned out to be a great friend to all attendees.Rob (left) and Andy (right) switching the Chattanooga yard.
Engineer Ed looks very happy that he is NOT the one who has to couple and uncouple cars in Big Shanty. Is Dan smiling or is that a grimace on his face?
That is mini-DC on the left and mini-Thom on the right at our small cabin just South of Altoona Pass. I have no idea who that shady character is on the right, probably a shirker trying to avoid work at the sawmill just across the tracks. (No, Thom & I are not selling moonshine out of our shack.)
Thom & I had the opportunity to have scans made of ourselves at the Great Scale Train Show, Timonium, MD. Bernard owns & operates Miniprints out of Canada. These are 2 HO scale prints Bernard produced from the scans we had done at Timonium. Figure painting is by Thom Radice. You can find out more about Bernard's fine products and his upcoming show schedule by visiting him at www.miniprints.com. Please tell him DC Cebula sent you.
I love this lighting effect and eagerly anticipate the addition of a couple of figures between the two lights. This is one of the views looking into the Chattanooga car shed.
Sunday, November 27, 2022
I know this is a bit tardy, but Donna & I were able to get together with ALL of my kids and grandkids at the same time to celebrate Thanksgiving this year, even if it was on the 19th and not the actual day. My son, Brook, his wife, Nicole, and Nicole's Aunt Debbie were gracious enough to allow us to celebrate at their house. Brook cooked the ham, his first. It was great to see everyone, and we got lots of photos. Thad's family was even able to swing by my house on their way home to see my progress on the layout. Here are some shots from the day.
Friday, November 25, 2022
Two weeks ago, I had the opportunity to visit my best friend, Thom Radice, for almost an entire week. The week culminated in a Saturday operating session on his W&A RR (North Branch). There was a great group of guys operating that day. Even Dan & Bill from our ACWRRHS group! Here are some photos from that session.
Running a train is a serious occupation. Above, conductor Dan (left) and engineer Bill (right) run their train trough Big Shanty on their way South to Atlanta.
Tuesday, November 1, 2022
Ventilated/Watermelon Box Car Build
Well, it has been way too long since I last made an entry on my blog. Much has transpired in that interval, and I have much catching-up to do. I thought I might start with something relatively simple, a car conversion I did back in 2004. This general design has been referred to by a number of names. Ventilated box car is the term I prefer. They were used here in Delaware when the peach industry was at its peak in the 1800s. They are sometimes referred to as watermelon cars, horse cars (like Mantua), and even prison cars (WTF).
It all started with this IHC ventilated box car.
Similar cars were produced by AHM. Neither car is in production at this time, but they can sometimes be found, usually relatively cheap, at train shows and swap meets. One of the nice things about modeling the 1860s is that the lack of demand by the general public means vendors often consider these cars as a waste of space in their inventory.
This is what the car looked like out of the box.
My next step was to disassemble the car.
All that was required was a small screwdriver and a hobby knife with a #11 blade (the multi-use tool necessary in any modelers toolbox).
Make sure you bag up the loose parts. I find it way too easy to misplace parts.
The next step is major. CAREFULLY remove/cut off the roof and cut the body shell ends and sides apart.
Note that I was not too neat with the ends. I intended to make replacement ends out of Evergreen Styrene car siding. More on that later.
I detest cast on grab irons and stirrup steps, so...
Using a thin beam square and my hobby knife, I cut along the groves in the boards as pictured to get the sections shown. I lightly cleaned the edges with an Emory board fingernail file. Do not be over enthusiastic with the filing. When you glue the parts back together you want to make sure the groove between the boards is preserved.
As you can see, the general configuration of the side remains the same, but the car length is shortened to a size like those found during the Civil War. The 4 scrap pieces went into the parts bag.
For the next step, I butt glued the pieces of the side back together using Testor's Liquid Cement. I used a straight edge to make sure the bottom edge of the car would be even. Then I glued a scale 1" x 4" as shown below for the trim between what will be the roof and sides.
Once thoroughly dry, I again used my hobby knife and the top edge of the trim to remove all of the car above the trim. I recommend leaving a slight space between the top edge of the trim and your car and then filing and sanding to get an even top to the sides.
Below are two images showing how I braced the car's interior using Evergreen Styrene. I can't remember the size I used but I plan to use smaller pieces in the future builds of this car. To glue the sides and ends together, I first took the ends of the original car, narrowed them to get a prototypical car width, and reversed them before gluing the body back together. I use the lips shown below to screw in the couplers and base of the car to the car body. If I need to adjust the weight of the final car, I can just unscrew the couplers and separate the body from the base.
I have a template I made from an old metal sign which I used to file and sand the peaked roof into an arched roof as seen in the above images. I made this template based on the USMRR box car drawings found in a back issue of Model Railroader magazine.
Below is what the car looks like at this stage. The white styrene going across the door will be painted black and so it will be invisible once the non-operating doors are glued on.
I next turned my attention to the undercarriage. At this point the, the car height, width, and length closely match those of the USMRR box cars used during the Civil War. The original undercarriage is now too long and too wide. So, I cut a section out of the base and reglued the 2 halves. As you can see by the while line running down the car center in the image below, I was a bit too aggressive, so I had to insert a styrene spacer to get the correct length. Narrowing the width was achieved by filing both sides of the undercarriage until the undercarriage fit snuggly into the already assembled body of the car. The exact number of strokes needed depends on the individual doing the filing. However, I would do 10 file strokes on one edge and then 10 strokes on the opposite edge until I achieved the desired width.
I know the metal bolsters are not prototypical for the time period but once on the tracks, they really are not noticeable. At this point, I also braced the undercarriage from within the car using a scrap of styrene siding. This was painted black before final assembly.
Also shown above, you can see how I made new queen posts and beams. The queen posts were Grant Line (now San Juan Models) 3" queen posts. The truss rods are made from thin monofilament fishing line.
I am not going to go into detail here on how I made the end detail. I will relate the specifics on that in another post. The details, however, were made to the standards found in the Model Railroader article referenced above.
I replaced the original doors with doors I scrounged from a Grandt Line D&RGW Stock Car Hardware Kit #5004. In future builds I plan to use the doors from the original car.
The sub roof is made from styrene I cut from an old plastic real estate sign. I cut and sanded a rectangle that snuggly fit between the ends and rested on the top of the side bracing. This I glued in using my Testors cement. Once this sub roof was dry, I sanded this styrene to match the radius of the ends. I now make my roofs slightly differently than the tissue paper roof shown. I now cut a piece of 0.01 thick plain Evergreen styrene sheet so it overhangs the car ends and sides. I glued this roof onto the sub roof and let it dry. After this dried, I glued on a scale 3' wide piece of "canvas" I cut from a piece of 0.005 styrene sheet. This I centered lengthwise on the roof and glued it down using Testors cement. The next day I carefully sanded the ends and sides of the roof to get a nominal 2" overhang. A piece of 0.02 styrene helps insure uniformity in the roof overhangs.
The roof walk supports were made from scale 2x4" styrene strips. Today I use Tichy Train part number 3081 Roof-walk Supports. The roof walk boards are made from scale 2x10" styrene strip. I lightly ran a broken Exacto coarse saw blade down the length of the roof walk followed by coarse sandpaper to give the resemblance of wood grain. I then used a #80 drill bit in a pin vise and simulated nail holes over each of the roof-walk supports. I cleaned up any fuzz and raised lines with the fine grit side of an Emory board nail file.
I believe that the end and roof grab irons are 18" Westerfield grab irons. I now just bend my own from Tichy Train wire and my Grandt Line &/or Tichy Train jigs. The door handles are 12" in length and made by bending brass wire in a homemade jig. The nut-bolt-washer casting are Tichy Train part #8016. The stirrup steps are Tichy Train part #3038.
The car body was painted with roof brown. I used Polly-scale roof brown, but the color does not need to be an exact match. The Del. Cent. R.R. decals were produced for me by a company that is no longer in existence. 😒 The numbers are from a Micro-trains USMMRR set. The simulated tar paper roof is painted Pollyscale grimy black. I sprayed the completed car with Dulcote.
I decided to use the original truck side frames but I replaced the original wheelsets with those from Reboxx (no longer available). 😒 I will probably replace these trucks at some point with those from Erc Cox. He has a Shapeways store but also produces his own. His look every bit as good as those I purchased through Shapeways but at a fraction of the cost.
Here are some historic shots of the car on my Delaware Central Rail Road module.
Here are some comparison shots between the original model's twin and the finished car.
Here is the car as it operates today on the Delaware Central RR. I ended up renumbering it from 26 to 36 because I accidently lettered a flat car with the same number. It was easier to change the number on this box car rather than the flat car.
Please note that when I re-decaled the car number, I also changed out the original Keyport Car & Foundry link and pin couplers with On3 Gilpin Tram couplers from San Juan Models.
I hope readers found this interesting and useful. Happy modeling.